Pre-Plan
saga:
It was all about ladakh, for last two years,
trying to perfect a ‘different’ plan, which could include all possible magic
needed, to make it a once in a lifetime
trip, afterall it was a dream destination. I scribbled & researched and I
do not know, how or when I swerved towards Bhutan – The land of Thunder Dragon
or more famously called as the Last-Shangri-la. In one weeks time, a rough
draft was made with budget of 20K inclusive of Air & Train fare. I shared
with some people, few responded, few ignored. Thereafter, it was all about
Bhutan everywhere, pictures displayed them, newspaper printed about it; I even received
a pen with Drukair printed on it, by fluke, courtesy My Sister. It was like
everything around me was sending in a positive vibe to visit Bhutan.
During my research for an itinerary, I came
across many photo files, which had an elaborate title – Bhutan, but when
you go through it, you realize, it was always Paro and Thimpu or for some it
extended till Punakha or Bumthang. I wondered why people term ‘Bhutan’ for just
two or three cities, when there is much more to explore in this beautiful
country. Offcourse, little more research and further map study, I realized,
there is more to Bhutan beyond Paro and Thimpu. So, the plan extended to 15
days, right from entry through West Bengal, i.e. West to touching the Northern
eastern State of Arunachal Pradesh at Trashiyangste and exiting via South i.e.
Samdrup Jhongkar into Assam. I even posted a query to one of the blogger, as to
why people do not go beyond Paro or Punakha. He replied it is mostly because of
lack of transportation (or costly private transport, hilly terrain and mostly
villages (in other words - nothing to see). I was adamant, because when you go
as a backpacker, it is always about exploring the unexplored. So, the final
plan was drawn, which was clearly divided into two parts – Town &Village.
Mumbai-NJP-Hasimara-Jaigaon/Phuentsholing –
Thimpu –Haa- Paro- Thimpu –Punakha- Thimpu – Bumthang – Trashigang – Trashiyangste
– Samdrup Jongkhar – Rangia – Guwahati – Mumbai
Thimpu being the central city with most of
the buses starting from there and also, the permits to visit the restricted
areas are obtained at Thimpu, hence I kept it as base for other places to
visit.
Being a 15 days plan, the first obstacle
was getting so many leaves. A proper time had to be chosen to decrease the
number of official leaves. After scanning the calendar, I realized there were
ample public holidays for office goers like me and others in October. Combining
Saturday-Sunday offs & Diwali public holidays, the count of 15 days came
down to 12 days for some and 10 days for others including me. So, October was
the month to explore Bhutan! I thanked my stars, when I came to know it was almost
end of tourist season & it would be pleasant weather to visit the Himalayan
Royal Kingdom.
Being so positive about the visit, I booked
the airplane tickets in April at dirt price of 4K for five of us thus clearing
the second obstacle. To fit it properly in budget, I thought of one way journey
i.e. while going towards NJP by booking the 3AC tickets for train, and again return
journey by train would have killed all of us for 2.5 days, hence we opted for
flights. Now comes the main part of the plan- the actual trip. The usual tweaks
to perfect it continued for next six months and also the number of people for
this trip kept declining till it reached One – i.e. Me. Some not relieved from
office for leaves, some didn’t bother to reason, some for Marathon and some due
to change in job, hence the leave issues. I wondered what kind of determination
it takes to actually make it a successful trip? Because, even for me, issues
kept cropping up right from start, but I couldn’t complain or cancel trip,
after all others had committed for my sake. So, there I was with the burden of
trust & betrayal, questioning the realization of this epic trip. Finally, I
made up my mind to travel solo, I got another setback, since September, there
was some rule about ban on Solo travelling for Indians. Back to square one,
drafted a Plan B for Nepal, so that the leaves that I had to bargain so hard
with adjustments in notice period and in addition to train and flight tickets
should not go waste. But as luck would have it, One of my friend recommended
his friend for this trip. She, Alpa, being novice wanted to explore the
adventures of being a backpack traveler. Another friend of mine, Kaveri, also
on notice period like me, wanted a big break from office politics, decided to
join me and Alpa at last minute. But then there has to be suspense till last
moment, and so it happened, till one day prior I was not sure if I was going to
Bhutan with these two or going solo to Nepal equally tensed and excited for
this much deserved sojourn of the year.
Actual
Plan: Finally, the day dawned on 11th
October,2014, we met at LTT station at 7.30 a.m. to board the Guwahati Express,
which left the station by 8.05 a.m. Kaveri, who had joined last, had issues
with her train ticket being waitlisted. We got it confirmed and thereafter the
journey began smoothly. We had a couple with one kid for company, who kept us
entertained throughout the train journey.
We were supposed to reach New Jalpaiguri
station at 1.05 am on Monday morning, instead the train was few hours late. Being pitch black outside, it was becoming
difficult in keeping tab on next oncoming station. Alpa and Kaveri dozed off,
while I kept watch on next oncoming station with intermittently dozing off and getting
nightmare about missing the station. But the delay was blessing in disguise,
instead of waiting from 1 to 7 am in the waiting room, the hours were
considerably reduced to 2 hours, because we reached around 5 am in the morning.
After the morning rituals, we had another train to catch, which would have
taken us to Hasimara. The train came on time i.e. 7.45 am and slowly steered
through the dense scenic forest, with occasional view of almost dried river and
visible white sand.
The speed is kept slow so as to avoid any accidents with
wandering animals or people on the track, the train kept blaring deafening horns
to announce its arrival every few seconds throughout the route.
13th October -We reached
Hasimara Junction at 11.30 am, almost 1 hour behind schedule. We started our video record for this trip
from this station onwards for which Kaveri was in-charge. As soon as we came
out, we were greeted with the sight of taxis waiting for passengers. Those were
reserved taxis charging 400-600 bucks. Since, I had already read about
availability of share autos somewhere near the station. We took a direct U-turn
towards station and inquired with station master, who directed us to the other far
end of station where the share autos waited to depart for Jaigaon.
Jaigaon is the last town on Indian side of
border. With bags loaded, auto took off towards Jaigaon, it was almost 30
minutes journey for Rs. 30 per head. We were dropped right at the border. We
saw the big border gate, through which the vehicles from both sides crossed
over. For pedestrians there was smaller gate. We walked in through and came to
the Phuentsholing town, this was the Bhutan side of border, the whole ambience
changed. From chaotic crowd to peaceful surrounding. I had read about the reviews
of Hotel Peljorling, as soon as I saw the board, went in to enquire.
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| Hotel Peljorling at Phuentsholing |
A room
with three beds was available for Rs. 700. We took the deal. Offloaded our
luggage, and dashed to the immigration office for permits. We saw many Indian
people waiting outside the office, mostly for workers permit. There was lunch
time for the office; we took the opportunity to fill in ourselves, being new to
the place instead of experimenting, we preferred to eat at the same place where
we stayed, because there was restaurant attached. I had Chicken Thupka, while
Alpa and Kaveri in their curiosity to try Bhutanese dish ordered Kewa Datsi and
rice, offcourse after asking the waiter about its content & how it is made.
It was a Potato, Chilli and Cheese gravy. After the experimental lunch, we went
back to the immigration office. The queue was much longer and I was worried if
we are going to get the permits on same day itself. We filled three forms individually;
I and Alpa attached two individual photos & a copy of passport, while
Kaveri attached the voter’s ID card.
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| Food across Bhutan |
We had to go through the crowd, to the
first floor, we submitted the form at the counter and then there was a long
wait. They tend to call out the name, where they take your photograph and fill
out the information provided in the forms directly into the computer. After 1.5
hours, we received our permits just when the office was about to close at 5.00 pm.
We were relieved, we didn’t have to wait one more day at the town, we soon
moved towards bus stand which was almost 1.5 kms away. We had to book the early
morning bus ticket to Thimpu. We got the tickets for Rs. 230 per head. We asked
around for the direction of Crocodile breeding centre, it was on the backside
of Bus stand, there was ticket charge of Rs. 20 per head. We dashed in so as to
get good view of the crocodiles before sunset. After spending some time, we
retraced our path back towards town.
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| Crocodile Breeding Centre |
We
walked around the town, looking for shops, scanning handicrafts, actually
ending up buying some good stuff at good price. Got back to the hotel, had
dinner & dozed off. Next day, we had 7.00 am bus from bus stand for Thimpu.
Hence, we made sure to clear bills on previous night itself.
14th October- Since, the
distance was almost 1.5 kms(and do not judge the kms like we do in India, it is
way much longer because of the twist and turns), and with our heavy luggage, we
hired a taxi for Rs. 50. He dropped us at bus stand. Thereafter, it was
winding, upward journey to Thimpu. Also, the temperature dropped down, our
jackets came out and it stayed out for next 10 days. The scene outside became
more spectacular. We were travelling along with clouds. Entire route had turns
at every 100 mts, with valley on one side, waterfalls, streams flowing in
between, it seemed like Malshej Ghat but only ‘n’ times bigger and mighty. We
reached Thimpu by 2.00 pm after intermediate stop for lunch. And the only
dishes available to eat are the datsis and thupka. Again, Thupka won hands
down. As soon as you get down at Bus stand, taxi drivers start hovering near
you. We asked a gentleman to take us to a hotel, he charged Rs. 120. It was a 5-10
minutes distance, which we realized later on. On the way, we also put in the
word for getting extended & restricted area permits. Instead of going to
hotel first, he took us to the Thimpu immigration office, which was on the main
Norzin Lam road. He helped us in getting the photocopies of permits, we got
from Pheuntsholing (required to be attached with the forms for extended and restricted permits). He did the running around for same, in few minutes we had
both the permits in hand. We were so happy for spending lesser time as compared
to the harrowing 1.5 hrs at Phuentsholing office that we thought of handing
over Rs. 150 to him as gratitude, but instead gave him as decided Rs. 120,
because, he charged us return fare which I didn’t realize while looking for
taxi at the stand. Anyways, as decided, he took us to some hotels on the same
road, finally zeroed on Hotel Singye for Rs. 1300 per night, after bargaining a
lot. We stayed there for two nights. Next day was Thimpu Sightseeing. We asked
the same driver regarding the package deal for sightseeing the thimpu city.
After much bargaining, he agreed on Rs. 2000.
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| Early morning view of Thimpu |
15th October - We were ready by
7.30 am next morning, we were supposed to visit Tango Monastery first, because
of the one hour hike, and we skipped and veered towards Dechenphu Lhakhang,
which is considered very special temple for Bhutanese people. The roads were
smooth and mountains had the blanket of fog. The road was winding up, with
prayer flags on the pine trees. So, from here on, we started our actual road trip
in Bhutan.
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| Dechenphu Lakhang |
Dechenphu Lhakhang was on an elevated level. After spending 10
minutes around, we left for the highest point on road in Thimpu, from where the
entire magnificent view of the city can be seen. The famed Buddha Point can
also be seen from here. Since, we started our journey empty stomach, we
insisted on having breakfast, as the city opens up by 9.00 am. We requested the
driver to halt at General Post Office. The main agenda of Thimpu visit was also
to get personalized stamps. We had a simple breakfast of Puri and datsi alongwith
some big rings of fried-rice stuff at the backside of GPO, a small canteen. After
breakfast, we went to Post office to check out the stamps.
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| General Post Office |
The lady at the
counter took our photos and soon she gave prints of our stamps for sum of Rs.
200. She said that we can use these stamps on post cards to send them back
home. The post cards were arranged in racks, for Rs. 20 each. Kaveri took the
opportunity of sending a thank you post card to her boss for granting her the
leaves. I bought one more stamp of Current King and Queen of Bhutan and kept it
along with my personalized stamp for my own collection. After the over excitement of owning the stamps,
we left the GPO.
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| Entire Thimpu city view |
Next on list was Institute for Zorig Chusum (commonly known as
Painting School) where students undertake a six-year course on the 13
traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan.
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| Takin -Bhutan's National Animal |
After the brief visit, we went further to Takin Preserve. Takin is the National animal of
Bhutan, it has its own mythological tale. It has the head of the Goat &
body of the cow. The preserve also holds a few sambar and barking deer.
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| Changangkha Lhakhang |
Changangkha Lhakhang was next. It is an old
fortress-like temple and monastic school perched on a ridge above Thimphu. A
brief circuit around and rotating the prayers wheels, we were back on the road.
Thereafter, we went to the National Memorial Chorten located in the main town.
It was impressive elaborate structure, crowded with people offering prayers,
circumventing the Chorten.
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| National Memorial Chorten |
This place is photographer’s delight to capture the
hues and colors of prayer flags against the backdrop of this pristine white
structure. Also, we found many monks around, who didn’t mind to get photographed.
The driver dropped us at a café for lunch. After going through the menu, which
had mostly pork and beef, we decided to search other restaurant on our
own. We found one, offcourse we had to
wait for almost an hour on our table before the food was served. The peach Ice
tea was my favourite and it was available throughout Bhutan.
 |
| Royal Botanical Garden |
After wasting the hours
at lunch table, we were late for Simtokha Dzong, hence we decided to skip it,
and instead saw the Royal Botanical Garden and Statue of Sakyamuni Buddha before
sunset. Royal Botanical Garden had variety of flowers. Only few flowers and roses were around. Seemed like the blooming season was still away. Statue of
Buddha was on top, from where entire Thimpu city can be seen. Also, it was so
windy, we could hardly stand still.
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| Statue of Sakyamuni Buddha |
We wrapped up the day by booking the
tickets to Bumthang in advance for the fourth day, and further continued walking
up and down the Norzin Lam lane, where they had different lane specifically for
sale of handicrafts. It was costlier than we expected. After asking for
permissions from each owner, I clicked the arts.
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| Handicrafts at Thimpu |
Next day, we had to leave for Cheli-la Pass
(Highest pass on road & restricted area) at Haa valley. We bargained a lot
for Thimpu-Haa-Paro, but the driver was adamant on Rs. 3500. He was calculating
the return fare to thimpu and Haa village. While roaming the streets in the
evening, we stopped a cab, and asked for the charges for same. When we insisted
on Chelila Pass, he agreed for Rs. 3000. Haa village is further 30-35 kms ahead from Cheli-la. After assuring ourselves
of the lowest cost for same, we agreed for same.
16th October - Next morning, we
were ready by 7.00 am for Cheli La Pass. Road to Cheli la goes from the
outskirts of Paro Town.
We had our breakfast at Airport restaurant, which had a
classy feel. Also, the occasional flights of Druk Air can be seen hovering
above. Road kept winding up and entire Paro Town along with the Air strip for
Paro Airport can be seen. Luckily, we saw a plane landing on the strip.
We reached Cheli-la by Afternoon. There were
other tourist buses too at the spot. The mighty, Bhutan’s most sacred mountain
- Mt. Jhomolhari can be seen from here.
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| Cheli La Pass |
We were back to Paro town by 4.00 pm.
Driver took us to Hotel Peljorling, got a place to stay for Rs. 750.
We had lunch and set out to explore the
quaint town of Paro, also with the intention of booking a taxi for next day’s
hike to Taktsang and remaining sightseeing. We first went to Taxi stand. Guy
came forward assuring us that Rs. 3000 was the best deal one can get around. We
were not too happy. We left the stand and walked down the road. Saw a taxi
halting at one end, went upto him and asked the same, he gave us the best deal
of Rs. 1500, and assured us that Hike and sightseeing can be covered in one day.
We were too ecstatic for next big day.
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| Tiger's Nest |
 |
| Drukgyel Dzong |
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| Kichu Lhakhang |
17th October - As pre-decided,
we got up early and were at the base for the trek by 7.30 am. We, three, soon
got separated, I was the last one, Alpa moved ahead on the zig zag route,
Kaveri took the villager’s route, which was steep but shorter. She had company
of some local ladies who entertained her with their lifestyle tales. I started
taking shortcuts (straighter unmarked paths) in that zig zag main route,
offcourse other tourist too followed the suit. It was amazing climb, with
occasional stopovers, allowing the horses carrying the tourist on its back to
pass, chatting up with other foreign tourists. Finally, after 2.5 hours,
reached the topmost point, Kaveri was waiting there. From this point onwards,
the descend starts and the entire Monastery can be viewed on the backdrop. A
photo-op session of selfies followed. After an hour of descend and further
ascend, we reached the iconic Taktsang Monastery. After the security check, we
took almost one hour to tour the entire place. We started the descend at 12.00
noon. I and Kaveri took the shorter villagers route, reminded us of Sahayadri
treks, because of slippery soil and steepness. We were down by 1.00 pm. We
continued further for rest of the sightseeing starting with Drukgyel Dzong,
considered as the most beautiful and famous archaeological sites, is now in
ruins. Looked like a fort. Next was Kichu Lhakhang.
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| Flowers at Kichu Lhakhang |
We were actually too tired,
thought of dismissing ‘another lhakhang’.
But, this Lhakhang was one of the most
beautiful and wondrous place to see. Photography was not allowed inside. We
were in awe, when we saw those magnificent statues inside. Must visit for all.
 |
| Paro Town |
We were back to the main town, saw another plane flying overhead and rushed for
National Museum of Bhutan. We hurriedly caught the glimpse of Bhutan’s
heritage, story behind butter tea, meaning of different masks, wild life, flora
and Fauna, also the history of Himalayan plate.
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| National Museum of Bhutan, Paro |
Entire Paro town can be seen
from here. The serpentine Paro river and the town located on its banks. Rinpung
Dzong was next, unfortunately it was closed, because, it was already 5.00 pm.
We just saw it from outside. We went straight to the Paro Taxi stand, our
driver had already fixed us a share cab to Thimpu for Rs. 200 per head.
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| Rinpung Dzong |
We reached
Thimpu by 7.30 pm. We didn’t want to stay at Hotel Singye again, hence thought
of exploring other options. The driver took us to Hotel Zey Zhang. We saw most
of the occupants were Indians. Even the owner was very courteous and humorous.
18th October - We already booked
the next day for Punakha Sightseeing for Rs. 3000. The road was being
re-constructed to Punakha, hence, driver warned us of road blocks, ensured us
to be on time. We left for Punakha by 6.30 a.m., crossed the patch before road
could get blocked.
 |
| Dochula Pass |
We had a brief halt at Dochula Pass, which offered a 360
degree view of Himalayan ranges. There were 108 Chortens built to honor the
Bhutanese soldiers who were killed when fighting the Indian rebels in 2003. We
rushed back to the cab, to cover the next patch of road before the block. We reached Punakha by afternoon. It was a picturesque
town.
 |
| Punakha Dzong |
We first visited the magnanimously built fortified Dzong on the confluence of Mo and Pho river – Punakha Dzong. Special permit is needed to visit this Dzong. Arguably
the most beautiful dzong in the country. We took almost an hour and half to go
around, soak in the peaceful surrounding, sat for some time and were back on
the road. The driver asked us if we want to walk on the sand on the bank of the
river, we were too thrilled. The scenic
view was too spectacular to refuse.
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| Punakha Dzong |
After some rounds of photos, we decided to
leave for Chimi lakhang. There was an hour’s walk from the main road. Saw the
sun shining with all its might, we decided to give it a skip. Went around the
place scanning the handicrafts. We were back on road to Thimpu, again paid a
short visit to Dochula Pass.
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| Chimi Lhakhang |
19th October - We stayed back at
Thimpu, because we had next morning bus to Bumthang. It was a whole day travel
with breathtaking sceneries. We had to collect the permit from checkpost, that
was taken from us, while going to Punakha. I got it stamped.
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| On the way to Bumthang |
We reached
Bumthang late at 7.30 pm instead of 5.30 pm because of some technical snag in
the bus. Being dark, it was not advisable to roam around in search of
accommodation. Instead I asked the traffic policeman regarding a place to stay.
He guided us to Hotel Ghatsholing, located at the back of the bus stand. We got
two bedded room for Rs. 800. After the grueling journey of more than 8 hours,
we were too tired. Bumthang was the sleepiest town. Every shop shuts by 7.00
pm. I avoided going out. Alpa & Kaveri scouted for dinner, finally found
one restaurant open. Winter had set in. We could feel the chill down the
marrow.
20th October - By next morning,
Alpa’s bout of cough increased, she required rest. She preferred to stay back
at hotel, while I and Kaveri went out for Bumthang Sightseeing.
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| Mebar Tsho - The burning lake |
We went to Taxi
stand, again the quoted price was 1500-2000 for just 3-4 places. We thought of
asking some cab out of taxi stand. After waiting for some time, we found a cab,
a young talkative chap- Christo, agreed to take us around for 1200, also acting
as guide. We first went to Mebar Tsho, which is more of a river gorge than
a lake. It is considered one of the most sacred site.
 |
| Kurjey Lhakhang |
Next was Kurjey Lhakhang,
there were three temples to explore, being afternoon, they were closed. But we
were lucky, when one monk came around and he opened up the temple for us to
view inside. The middle temple was built around a cave with a body print of
Guru Rinpoche imbedded in the wall. Soon thereafter, we visited the Jambay
Lhakhang. When we saw the statues inside, we were awestruck. The monks were
playing the music instruments, chanting the prayers, creating a different aura
around.
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| Jambay Lhakhang |
We were allowed to go around the main idol, watching each and every
idols in awe. Bhutan has plants which flowers in abundance. We got the
opportunity to pose with them. Last on list was Jakar Dzong, which was being
used as administrative offices. We took a round, entire Bumthang town can be
viewed from here. We finished the entire sightsee by 2.30pm. We back to the
hotel, picked up Alpa for lunch. After lunch, we rested for a while before
going back to the town to enquire about the bus for Trashigang.
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| Jakar Dzong |
Got a shock of
life, that the bus tickets are supposed to be booked at Thimpu. Infact, when I had
enquired at Thimpu for same, they asked us to book at Bumthang. We caught the
traffic policeman, told him our dilemma. He assured us of help and asked to
return by 6.00 pm sharp. We didn’t had cash with us, after sending Alpa and
kaveri to get the money from ATM. I chatted up the policemen, and they were
amused by us, three girls going backpacking across Bhutan. People usually don’t
go beyond Punakha or Bumthang, and here I was repeating the story to all the
three policemen, who were too pleased to hear my tale.
21st October - Finally, we got
three seats for Rs. 500 each, which later turned out to be double booked. The
bus comes directly from Thimpu, halts in night at Bumthang and goes next day to
Trashigang. It was again a whole day journey with remarkable views. Snow had
started settling on trees.
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| On the way to Trashigang |
There was greyish tinge on the whole landscape,
which looked like ash, but on closer inspection, it was thin layer of snow. I
was ecstatic at such an amazing sight, reminded me of post card view of
Switzerland. We reached Trashigang by 4.30 pm. Settled for Hotel close to bus
stand for Rs. 750. The experience at Trashigang was not that great like the
other towns of Bhutan. Even the room, we stayed had cockroaches. Being at pen-ultimate leg of journey, we
ignored the problem and focused on next day’s day trip to Trashiyangste.
22nd October - We got up late,
thinking it won’t take much time for a day trip. We enquired with the hotel
owner regarding the charges to visit Trashiyangste. He quoted 3500, coming down
to 3000. We felt, we were being taken for a ride. Thanking him, we left for the
taxi stand, where the guy who quoted 3000 was already speaking to the other
taxi drivers. We felt something amiss, directly asked the cops, regarding the
charges, they told us, it should be about 2000-2500.
 |
| On the way to Trashiyangste |
We were just thinking of
skipping the trip, suddenly a guy approaches, for Rs. 2200, to and fro trip.
Although, he looked shady, we were on the verge of skipping the trip, finally
thought of taking the risk and it looked too tempting to say no, after coming
so long. We got in his truck, and were off to Trashiyangste. I usually prefer
to take a nap to avoid the nauseating feeling, that I get in these twist and
turn roads, instead I was wide awake, watching his every turn, because he
smelled very drunk, we realized this later. Instead of being worried to death, Kaveri
kept him busy with conversations, while we provided back support, making sure
he doesn’t doze off. After watching his driving for some time, I realized these
people usually drink and he was following all the rules, which was sign of safe
driving.
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| Chorten Kora, Trashiyangste |
It was a long journey, with
road blocks in between, almost after 3 hours we saw the sign of some civilization. Trashiyangste was the last town on Bhutan
side, thereafter, it was mountains, leading to Arunachal Pradesh on Indian
side. Chorten Kora is an important stupa next to the Kulong Chu River,
the symbol of peace and harmony, inspired by (Bodhnath Stupa in Nepal),
and is esteemed highly by the people of Bhutan. After the brief tour around, we
went back to Gom Kora, which was on the way.
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| Gom Kora |
It was a picturesque temple, located amidst the rice
field. The background was very beautiful, here I took some selfies with the old
ladies who were watching and smiling. It was already 6.00pm and sun had already
set. We missed out on Trashigang Dzong, we got down at main street, walked down
to hotel. We had already booked our next day’s bus tickets to Samdrup jongkhar
for Rs. 240 per head.
23rd October - Next day was the
last day of travel in Bhutan, It was a again a long journey, started at 07.30
am and reached by 4.00 pm. From mountains to plains, there was unsettling
feeling that rushed through my mind. The sight of far off plains, reminded me
of the bliss that I was leaving behind. Samdrup jongkhar had the mixed crowd of
Buddhist and Hindus.
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| Diwali at Samdrup |
Being the main day of Diwali, there were bollywood songs
on the loudspeakers. Shopkeepers performing Lakshmi Puja, one owner gave us
ladoos to eat, while we were clicking pictures and watching the celebrations
around. Our permits were taken at the Forest Check post, we reached one day
ahead of plan and had a full day for Guwahati trip, because of Paro (I had kept
two days for Paro).
24th October – Next day, we
crossed the border on foot, caught the Bus, which took us to Rangia Town, from
here, there were share taxis to Guwahati city. We hopped in one and landed in
City by afternoon. We were dropped on the outskirts of the city. Hired an auto,
which took us to main city, showed us some hotels for accommodation (Being off
season, hotels were running empty). We zeroed in on one, which was closer to the
Airport bus service (near Guwahati Railway station). We had half day in hand
plus the next day till 2.00 pm. I kept a day buffer, for any unforeseen circumstances,
which we adjusted with single day at Paro; instead now we got 24 hours extra.
Khamakya Temple at Guwahati was kept optional initially, but now we had time to
visit Khamakya Temple (7 kms).
 |
| A day at Guwahati |
After 2.00 pm, we set out, took the local bus
and got down at the entrance. Khamakya temple was located on top of the hill,
to go there, share taxis ply. We got into argument because instead of regular
Rs. 10, they started asking Rs. 20. We were furious at how these people can
change rates on sight of a tourist. We were too adamant to budge, finally
another taxi came, when he assured us that he would charge according to meter,
those people started abusing him. We got in anyway, we had to pay little extra
but we didn’t mind that. It was the ransom attitude at the holy place of those
people that actually pissed us off. I didn’t like the place, because like those
taxi drivers even the people who offered more money were taken directly in as
compared to people like us who preferred to go through queue. Well, it is the
story of all the pilgrimage centers across India. And yes, this entire incident,
reminded us WE WERE BACK IN INDIA. In the evening we took the Brahmaputra
cruise, it is good for couples, I do not know about Kaveri & Alpa, but I
was helluva bored. After the cruise, we went around the Bazaar area, looking
for jackets, shopped for some tea.
25th October – We got up late by
8.00 am. I had a direct flight at 5.45 pm, Kaveri had train journey of 2 days
at 6.00 pm, while Apla had one stop flight at 3.45 pm. I and Alpa left at 10.00
am in the Airport Bus. While Kaveri stayed back till checkout time. I and Alpa
reached home by 11.00 pm. Kaveri reached on 27th.
This was an epic journey, which seemed
like an eternity, I did had a half empty feeling while leaving Trashiyangste, for
which I promised myself I will go back again maybe for a trek at Trashiyangste
or Bumthang in future.
Tips:
1.
One photograph and a copy of
passport or Voter’s ID are required for entry permit at Phuentsholing. Even for
extended & restricted permit, again one photograph each and copy of entry
permit is required.
2.
Shopping at Phuentsholing is
cheaper than other towns.
3.
Every restaurant has a bar
attached. People drinking on another table is very common. And yes, they do
mind their own business.
4.
Thuppa and Thupka are
different. Thuppa is the rice porridge served in the early hours or late at
night to beat cold along with tea whereas Thupka is the watery noodle dish with
a dash of vegetables and chicken or any other meat.
5.
While travelling in bus, make
sure to reach on reporting time, to upload bags in the carrier section, so as
to avoid paying charges to the other guys for helping you. Because the person,
uploading the bags is being already paid by the driver himself.
6.
There was no issue for currency
anywhere. People gladly accepted Indian currencies. Infact, at the restaurant,
they asked us for Indian currency, we exchanged them with 1000 notes. They need
these currencies to trade with Indian Markets across the borders. Because, most of the things are imported from India by Bhutan.
7.
ATMS are available at every
town, BOB(Bank of Bhutan) and BNB (Bhutan National Bank). One caters to
Maestro cards and other for Visa cards.
8.
Maximum charge to move around
in town is Rs. 60/-. Some may charge higher as return fare, which can be
avoided if you look around for other drivers.
9.
If going in cold season, make
sure that the geyser works or else it would be very hard time finding a hotel
manager in the early morning.
10.
Ask for permission before
clicking any pictures of handicrafts. It is the respectable way. And yes, they
do not deny, except at Monasteries and some important crafts.
11.
Always, try to strike a deal
for sighseeing outside the taxi stand. You may get cheaper rate as compared to
the ganged up rates of Taxi stand.
12.
Almost all the buses start from
Thimpu itself, book the tickets in advance.
