A random trip that started with announcement of official
trip for workshop of a friend at a get together, She casually asked me to join
for following weekend of her workshop and I hovered away at the idea of
implementing my long time pending plan and blurted out excitedly yes, without
thinking the implications it may have on my usual budget factor for any trip. I
didn’t bother to wait further and think, because I strongly believe in “Do not
wait or look away, if an opportunity comes knocking any time of life”. And Bangalore –
Mysore-Ooty was pending for almost more than two years. After browsing online
for the bus tickets which were almost for Rs. 2300 and the hours taken to
travel would have thrown the entire schedule out of gear, we decided to opt for
faster mode i.e Air. After all the permutations and combinations, eventually we
sashayed on… to the craziest trip. Flights from both sides came to roughly Rs.5500.
We settled for that to save the hours and get maximum out of 3 days trip. I
booked the mum-bang-mum fixing the dates for to and fro, while my friend waited
for the official permission to attend her workshop . Now only thing left was to
fill in the gap between these two dates.
The funniest part was the “official workshop” got postponed to some other date. And
she had to book the tickets on her own minus the supposedly reimbursement from
company. We decided to carry on with the plan.
I had to tweak the original plan and filled the gap with
Madikeri – Hill station of Coffee and Spices as suggested by Poo. Ooty was
left out to cover in future with other places down south. Finally it was set to
Mysore-Madikeri-Bangalore.
Day arrived. Supposed to leave Friday night at 9.00 pm from Mumbai
airport….
Accustomed to the usual twist! Previous
night, it poured like anything, looked like the sky opened up to devour whole
of Mumbai. Trains blocked, schools cancelled and I got an official leave right
in middle of the bridge, while waiting for at least one of the train to arrive.
I was with my big haversack packed to the brim with sleeping bag and stuff
ready with all required answers to the queries posed by colleagues. Instead, I
headed back home, turned out to be blessing in disguise. Poo, who was supposed
to visit the Goregaon branch of her office, left her sack at my home. We hoped
that the rain would subside and we would leave for airport without any untoward
event in the evening. Flight was scheduled at 9.15 pm instead it landed at
9.50 pm resulting in delay for its arrival in Bangalore. We had a friend at
Bangalore, at whose place we had planned to rest till morning before embarking
on roller-coaster journey. We reached Bangalore around 12.00 midnight.
He had one more friend visiting him, we all got in to Airport Bus
that leaves from the airport and transports the passenger to the Main city. Charges for same was
Rs. 250/- and takes almost 1 to 1.5 hours to reach. We dozed off as soon as we
settled at friend’s place at Koramangla. Got up at dawn by 5.00 am. We managed to get a bus to Majestic (Rs. 20)
hoping to get a bus to Mysore. Instead, we were informed that buses leave from
Satellite Bus Stand for Mysore. Again, we boarded another bus that would drop
us to Satellite(Rs. 14). We purchased some tidbits to eat and got on Mysore Bus
(Rs. 107). We informed the conductor that we intend to alight at
Srirangapatnam, which was almost 30 minutes prior to Mysore.
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Minarets of Masjid-e-Ala |
|
Solar Clock |
We reached Srirangapatnam bus stand by 9.00 am. Being
only two of us, we hired an Auto for sightseeing. They have the pamphlets ready
with packages mentioned. We decided to visit only main places out of all those.
Settled for Rs. 300 after much bargaining.
First he took us to the
Masjid – e-Ala built by Tipu Sultan. The mosque has beautiful minarets
that touches the sky, these minarets stand on a high platform and has an open
court in the front and a covered verandah.
The terrace possesses a very
interesting innovation called as Solar Clock also known as Sun Dial or Sun
Clock. Next stop was Tipu Sultan’s Palace which was in ruins. We halted for few
seconds at the spot, where memorial had been built. At this spot, Tipu
Sultan’s dead body was found. Further ahead, we went to visit the Sri
Ranganathaswamy Temple. In the sanctum, the image of Vishnu reclines on the
coils of the snake Adisesha, under a canopy formed by the snake's seven
hoods, with his consort Lakshmi at his feet.
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Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple |
We went around the temple, it was quite
big. After, spending around half an hour, we proceeded further to Gumbaz which
was on other side of the main road along with other remaining places. The Gumbaz is a large Mausoleum in the middle of a garden. Tipu Dultan built the Gumbaz an an apt tribute to his father.
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Gumbaz |
The
architecture is splendidly noteworthy. Sharply cut pitch black granite pillars
around the open verandah supports the rectangular structure. Inside there are the cenotaphs of Tipu Sultan, his father Hyder Ali and mother Fakr-Un-Nisa. The walls are painted in tiger
stripes that are associated with Tipu Sultan as informed by the local, who
wanted to guide us around. Dome in itself is spectacular to watch.
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Black Granite Pillars |
In the
garden, there were many tombs scattered around.
We left for Mysore by afternoon. Caught the bus from bus
stand and in next 15 minutes, we were at Mysore Bus stand. Thankfully, there
was a cloak room at Bus stand, we preferred to keep our baggage there(Rs. 25
for each sack) and had lunch in same Bus Stand. After Lunch, we decided to
check out the amount charged by the autos for a round trip of Mysore. As
guessed, they started quoting exorbitant amount of Rs. 800 to Rs. 1000 for
three major places.
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Chamundeshwari Temple |
Initially the auto drivers at bus stop dissuaded us from
taking auto, while insisting on cab, reasoning that autos are not allowed to
travel till top. We being adamant on hiring an auto went farther from Bus
station and halted an auto, after much bargaining, he agreed to take us around
for Rs. 450/- and even assured us that he will drop us right at top. First stop
was Chamundi Hills, which was on elevation of 1000 mts above sea level.
|
Statue of Mahishasura |
(
According to
mythology this was the domain of the demon called Mahishasura (the Buffalo
Demon). The place was thus known as Mahishapura or Mahishuru, the land of
Mahishasura. And that later morphed into Mysore in English and Mysooru in
Kannada, the local language. A boon made Mahishasura so powerful that no man
can kill him. Unable to stand his atrocities, people prayed to the goddess to
save them from Mahishasura. Goddess Shakti, the personification of cosmic
energy in the feminine form, took the avatar (form) of the fierce goddess
Chamundeshwari. She kills the demon and saves the people. Because of this act
the goddess is called Mahishasuramardhini, the slayer of demon Mahisha. The hilltop is the place where her shrine is located. The mythology continues…
According to some beliefs the Chamundi Hills is in fact in the shape of the
fallen demon! – Sourced from Net)
The unwinding road to the top is scenic and super smooth,
heaven for riders, patch of almost 10-12 kms. One can view the whole of mysore
city from different spot while going up. As soon as we reached the top, we were
greeted by brightly painted statue of Mahishasura. We thought of posing with it
later. First the Temple, being weekend it was crowded, which made us race.
There are different types of queue for Chamundeshwari Temple depending on
availability of time and money.
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Mysore city view |
Longer one(without ticket), shorter one and
VIP. We preferred the middle one, by buying the ticket of Rs. 30 per head. After wading through crowd, finally got the
darshan and were out in next half hour. Further down is the large statue of
Nandi (Bull), the mount of Lord Shiva. As soon as we were about to leave, it
rained heavily, we took shelter in one of the shops selling all kind of Chinese
items. Poo managed to get miniature version of wooden camel that she was
searching. We photographed ourselves with the statue of Mahisasura and hopped
back into the auto and stopped at a spot to capture the whole city in our
camera.
One can either trek the whole way up and down or can
travel by local transport.
On the way there was Sand Art Museum, we decided to skip
and move on to Mysore Palace.
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Mysore Palace |
Mysore palace is located within the city, built
in 14th century by the then Wodeyar kings. It is one of the most beautiful
architectural wonder we had ever seen. We were enamored by its beauty
throughout right from the domes to the paintings to the mural on the walls. The
painting looked so real, we were in awe, thinking how great those artisans were
compared to today’s tech and effort nowadays people put. Offcourse, we couldn’t
capture the details in our camera because it was not allowed. There was
entrance fee of Rs. 40 and camera to be deposited at the locker room near
entrance. There were imposing statues of Panther (looked like panther to me,
and so real) throughout the groun
d.
(Vani Vilas Sannidhana , the then ruler ( queen of
Chamaraja Wodeyar X ) commissioned Henry Irwin, a renowned architect of British
India to design the modern Mysore palace. This is what you see now as the
Mysore Palace. It took about 5 years to build and combines a range of
architectural styles. This concept is popularly known as Indo-Saracenic style.
One can see a pleasant blend of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput, and Gothic styles of
architectural elements. The palace is basically a three storied
structure with a 44 meter ( 145 feet ) central tower. Pinkish marble domes
adorn the number of towers configured in perfect symmetry. – Sourced from Net)
The tour of entire palace is routed properly. First lap
of tour is the Doll Pavillion where antiques made of gold, silver, marble, ivory from around the world were on display.
The central portion of the palace is a huge court. The
royal Marriage Hall (Kalyana Mantapa ) was the one which was jaw-dropping. We
couldn’t take our eyes beyond the grandeur that was on display.
The walls were adorned with oil paintings, so intricately
detailed, of ceremonies and festivals, that used to take place in those era. We
shopped for some sandalwood items from the shops located in its vicinity and
proceeded further to St. Philomena’s Church, which I had seen while travelling in bus to
Mysore. It looked so different like a castle from Victorian era and towered
right into the sky. This is one of the largest churches in South India.
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Saint Philomena's Church |
(Saint Philomena venerated
as a virgin martyr saint of the Catholic Church in the 19th century ) is said
to have been a young Greek princess martyred in the 4th century. In 1926, TRV
Thamboo Chetty, the Diwan and Chief Justice of the then Mysore kingdom under
Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, brought a relic (image) of saint Philomena from
Peter Pisani, Apostolic Delegate of the East Indies. The
inspiration for the church’s design was the similar looking, and much bigger
Cologne Cathedral of Germany. The architectural style is popularly called
neo-Gothic or Victorian Gothic style, that was popular in Europe during the
time. Typically this style spot slimmer and unusually taller features with needle
like spires. The design was done by a Frenchman called Daly under the
supervision of Bishop of Mysore Rev. Rene Fuga. The construction was completed
in 1941, eight years after the foundation stone was laid.-Sourced from net)
There are many stained glass images portraying birth
of Jesus Christ, the Last Supper, the Crucifixion and the Resurrection.
We decided to wind up the day after a rendezvous with
these major monuments and head to Madikeri. We released our haversack from the
cloak room and had some snacks before boarding the bus to Madikeri. After an
hour to the Journey, bus got punctured and vacated the whole bus in one of the
bus depot. It was almost 10.00 pm. We waited for some time to get another bus. I
had little knowledge of Kannada, but can’t talk. Because of lack of knowledge
about local lingo, we were in lurch. Even the locals were not helpful, blanking
staring at two females with big bags. I lost my cool when the conductor
expected us to run after one of the crowded bus and the conductors on those
buses shut the door on our face citing over crowd, even when this guy pleaded
them to take us. This guy started blaming us that we didn’t go in that bus and
there is no bus after this, which I could make out from his banters. I yelled
at him for his foolishness and rudeness of those conductors that they expected
us to run behind bus which was already in motion with our sacks. Two local guys intervened and told us
that there is always another bus so not to worry. After few moments of heated
arguments, one more bus came which was empty and we were glad that we finally left
that godforsaken place. I thought of complaining to the bus authorities about
the conductor’s behavior towards travelers in such matter, eventually I let it
go as one of the experiences.
After going around the town for our stay in Madikeri,
which was raining most of the time, most of the hotels were full owing to
weekend, we finally got in Hotel Hilltown. One of the best accommodations for
me till date. Overall a very clean room
for Rs. 780 per night. They had the 12.00 noon checkout policy. Reluctantly, we
had to book for 2 days. Had a good night sleep, without worrying about any damn
thing in the world. We woke up by 7.30 am, checked the weather and it was still
raining cats and dogs. Being a hill station, it was the usual weather at this
time. We ventured out for a breakfast and hopped into auto before asking him the
charges for Madikeri sightseeing (Rs. 100).
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Museum at Madikeri Fort |
He took us to a Madikeri Fort,
which was nearby and hardly anything left, except two life sized elephant
statues in the well maintained garden, government office and a museum. Next was
an Omkareshwar Temple followed by Raja’s seat. There was a Rs. 5/- ticket to
visit this landscaped garden. Despite raining heavily, we managed to get
ourselves clicked and risked the
umbrella being blown away because of winds that accompanied the rains. We
wanted to visit the famed Golden Temple & Elephant sanctuary.
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Omkareshwar Temple |
The auto
driver informed us that they are about 30 kms away and he doesn't have permit to
drive beyond his area. He suggested that he can help us in arranging the car
for same. After much bargaining he came down to Rs. 1300/- It was a big car,
and we felt like we could afford some luxury after all these up and down of travel.
First, we headed to Dubare Elephant camp, which was located in Kushal nagar at
the bank of River Kaveri. We reached around 12.00 noon, hence were late for the
sightings.
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Raja's Seat |
There was as usual crowd and also river rafting was taking place. We
were not interested in River rafting, after the bland Kolad river rafting experience,
only place I am going to try again is Rishikesh or Zanskar for more thrilling
rapids.
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Namdroling Monastery |
We decided to go to Namdroling Monastery also known as Golden Temple.
This spectacular structure was another highlight of the trip after Mysore
Palace and St. Philomena’s Church. Took me back to my Bhutan Trip. Whole
complex was spick and span. The usual crowd everywhere mostly tourists and
locals who thronged to see and click the monks in prayers happening in one of
the monastery.
Anyday, I would prefer the peaceful monasteries of Bhutan than
here. It took an hour almost to go around and had the lunch of momos and
Thupkas (only veg). On our way back, my friend decided to buy some home-made
wines for her friends. I tried tasting Guava wine hoping to like it this time
(Last time red wine tasting was disastrous for my tract), instead spat it out
and tried to take out that appalling taste from my mouth by rinsing it again
and again.
Well, I figured it was not for me and will never dare to taste or
try in future. By 2.30 pm we decided to wind up the tour before the driver
enticed us with the prospect of visiting one of the coffee estates that he
manages for a lady who stays in Mumbai. We thought the trip would be incomplete
without visiting one of these coffee estates. Whole of Madikeri was on a slope
with coffee and Black pepper growing in abundance.
|
A Coffee Bean |
The only thing to watch out
for in the coffee estates during monsoon is the presence of leeches on the
ground and mosquitoes above ground. We were careful enough as not to donate
blood to those leeches, but couldn’t avoid the itchy mosquitoes. We took a halt
for some shopping which included silk sarees, spices, chocolates and tasty
pickle (worth it).
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A Coffee Plantation & Black Pepper creepers |
We had booked the overnight Airavat bus to Bangalore(Rs.
563/-), which was more than comfortable. We reached early morning at Bangalore
by 5.00 am, decided to freshen-up at the hotel and get some sleep before
embarking on Bangalore sightseeing. Instead, we were bugged by the auto drivers,
who kept insisting on taking us around to good accommodation. We preferred close to
bus station so that we can get into bus in the evening which will take us
directly to the airport. After much pursuance we landed at Parvati lodge(Rs.
800), which seemed shady, but we couldn’t help it, because none of the hotels offered
a day’s stay. Being at the last leg of the tour, we somehow managed to fit in
that small room and dropped down for 2 hours sleep. I was woken up by intense
stinging pain around my neck and to my horror saw lots of creepy bedbugs
crawling around. I jumped up, woke up Poo, who seemed blissfully asleep. I was
paranoid for the rest of the stay and hoped they wont fly with me back home in
my sack. We kept the sack on the chair, so as to avoid getting our sacks
infected and sprayed Amrutanjan around it, hoping the smell would detest those
crawlies which included cockroaches too.
As soon as we got out, we had breakfast in the nearby
restaurant and headed straight to Bus stand to check the stop where the airport
bus arrives on Poo’s insistence. After locating the stop which was more than
1 km away, we decided to hire an auto in the evening instead of walking across.
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Vidhana Soudha |
We decided to go beyond the auto stand and ask some
random auto driver for the sightseeing charges. As soon as we stopped one, and
asked him about same, soon other auto drivers jumped in the conversation. I was
getting agitated, because of interference, that guy insisted on us going around
in some car, while I was adamant on auto. Reluctantly, we agreed to share his
auto for major sightseeing Rs. 1300/-). Half way through, auto halted,
seemed to be some problem. After 10 minutes of trying to get it start, I got
down, hoping to get another auto, he insisted on arranging an omni van for us
to travel, I told him, I am allergic to closed vans, instead need an auto. And
it started.
First place, he showed us was the Vidhana Soudha, which
was grand structure. But photography was not allowed hence, we just feasted our
eyes with its opulent domes. Next was the Lalbaug, being a botanical garden, it
had my interest (Camera charges: Rs. 50/-+ entry fees: Rs. 10/-). Spread out
widely, with dedicated space to cactus family. The garden has well laid paths
and road, and good collection of plant species.
|
Lal Baugh |
It might take more than 1 hour
to go around. We did most of photography with the flowers and insects here.
There was a very old mango tree supposedly planted during Tipu Sultan era. Next
followed was Dodda Ganeshana Guddi and Shri Big Bull Temple(which is said to
be the fourth largest bull in the world). We headed next to Tipu Sultan’s
summer palace(Rs. 5/-). It was simple and elegant.
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Shri Big Bull Temple |
Last for this trip was Bangalore Palace. It was jaw
dropping view! To see a Victorian era castle in India came as a surprise. It
was well maintained. Only drawback was the tickets required to see the palace
form inside(Rs. 225/-). And to photograph the same, one has to shell out Rs.
625/-. Also, with the plain ticket one can view only few section of the palace,
other sections were out of bounds. I was bit disappointed.
|
Bangalore Palace |
Poo wanted to go around mall road for shopping. It
seemed bit similar to Colaba causeway. Nothing beats that. About Bangalore,
If I ever visit again, it would be for wood work and brass artifacts, which
seemed very enticing.
We left in the evening for airport (Bus for airport: Rs.
220/-) and flew back home and were greeted by heavy rains which was on
sabbatical while we were away!
We loved Madikeri a lot and intended to visit again,
hoping to relax in one of the homestays!
Total expenditure for three days excluding airfare was
Rs. 5600/- per head.